Although more prospective owners seem to be taking the time to find out what they need to know before buying their first Dragon, this website hopes to address the problem of information not being easy enough to access and to remind newcomers of their responsibilities to a living thing that is obviously quite capable of learning behavior and forming attachments to individuals. They can feel pain, they can feel hunger, they can get lonely, they can get bored, they can get cold, they can get sick and they can die- it's real easy! On the other hand they can lead long, happy, contended meaningful lives with knowledgeable owners who don't just see them as something of curiosity value but a wonderful opportunity to share a life and learn from it.

Unfortunately, a lot of stores and some dealers seem to be supplying people with no backup information or checking out what the new owner needs to get started as well as providing incorrect or harmful information concerning all aspects of care (substrate, cage size, diet etc.). So, if you are thinking of getting a Bearded Dragon, take the time to read this sheet and at the same time ask yourself whether your supplier is really knowledgeable enough to buy a dragon from.

It doesn't take much homework to get the facts before you get the animal. But if you have already purchased one and run into trouble, the answer will hopefully be here. This information is aimed at owners of Pogona vitticeps- The Inland Bearded Dragon. If you're a first time owner thinking of obtaining a different species, my advice would be ... DON'T! Do your research and then buy the easiest species: P. vitticeps.



BEFORE YOU BUY


HOW OFTEN AND WHAT DOES A BEARDED DRAGON EAT?

Bearded dragons are primarily insectivorous. They will also eat vegetables, but stay away from those with high vitamin A or phosphorous contents. The dragon's food needs to be dusted periodically as shown below. When the dragon is a juvenile, they will have more of an insect diet.  As the dragon matures and reaches adult hood they tend to eat more vegetables.  

When feeding insects (crickets or roaches), one method we use is to provide as many as they will eat in a 5-10 minute period (other regimens are listed below). Remember the insect should be no bigger than the distance between your dragon's eyes in order to help prevent the risk of impactions, hind leg paralysis or death from food that is too big. This can be a serious issue for very young dragons when it is hard sometimes to find the right size feeders.

HATCHLINGS (up to 2 months)

Young Insects - 2 or 3 times daily - Dust once every day
Vegetables every day - DO NOT Dust - Remove by midday
Bearded Dragon Bites daily

Spray twice or three times daily

JUVENILES (2 to 4 months)

Insects - 2 times daily - Dust once every other day
Vegetables in the morning every day - DO NOT Dust
Bearded Dragon Bites daily

ADULTS

Insects - 1 or 2 times weekly (use the '5-10 minute period' method) - Dust once or twice monthly
Vegetables - Every day - DO NOT Dust
Bearded Dragon Bites daily

Pinky mice can also be offered to adults periodically perhaps once a month or every six weeks.  If there is a problem with health, but it is not necessary or advises as a regular item for an otherwise healthy dragon. We actually don't feed pinkies unless we have a female who has just laid or we have an adult who needs fattening up after an illness. They are high in fats and thought to contribute to liver problems later in life.

WHAT DO WE USE FOR 'DUSTING' MY CRICKETS?

MINERALL 1. Multivitamin OR Herptivite Multivitamins by Rep-Cal
Phosphorous-free Calcium Carbonate (Rep-Cal with D3 - NOT Vitamin A)
Multi-Vitamin powders should be used instead of Calcium once or twice a week for hatchlings and juveniles and alternately for adults

WHAT OTHER INSECTS CAN I USE?

We do not reconmmend you feed your dragon any type of wild caught insect.

Unless you really know you insects we would recommend that you stick with store-bought items like crickets, silkworms and superworms (if the dragon is old enough, do not feed to babies), but if you are confident in your entomological knowledge, the following can be used (although some might carry parasites - another reason to stick with store-bought)....

ROACHES, MEALWORMS, WAXWORMS, SILKWORMS, GRASSHOPPERS, MOTHS, FLIES, BUTTERFLIES, KATYDIDS, BEETLES, MAYFLIES (aka SHADFLIES).
Although you could use any of the above, you must be very careful. Roaches can be quite large and the Hissing Cockroaches are in my opinion, too tough for Beardies. We use Lobster Roaches for all of our dragons at this time. Mealworms should only be used in emergencies and then only if they are white and freshly moulted, because they have very thick indigestible skins and could cause impaction. Superworms are a better choice as they have a greater meat to chitin shelling ratio. Waxworms are much too rich to be used for anything other than occasional treats- too many will lead to such complications as fatty liver disease or kidney failure in later years. Any wild caught insect might be carrying either parasites or pesticide, so be VERY CAREFUL with those!

Always make sure the insect being offered is small enough and for babies, not too tough. Adults will chew up almost anything, but as always; BE CAREFUL AND USE COMMON SENSE!

LIGHTNING BUGS ARE DEADLY!

Even one lightning bug (also known as Fireflies) will kill your dragon, so don't leave them out after dark.

BE CAUTIOUS WITH MEALWORMS, WAXWORMS AND PINKY MICE : Too many mealworms, waxworms or pinkies is not good : too fattening and too rich- BD's have hearts and blood vessels that can be damaged. Also anything too large (mice) is harder to digest and therefore of less nutritional value. Only use mealworms as treats- one at a time. That way they are always chewed before swallowing. For babies we would recommend only using 'white' newly skin-changed ones that are just finished skin changing as they are soft and break very easily. Mealworms have a very hard chitinous exoskeleton and very strong mandibles and there is always the remote possibility that gnashing mandibles might nip the delicate lining of your beardy's digestive system on the way down - be sure to use them wisely. Probably no more than 5-10 a week. For youngsters it's the calcium you need and supplement powders don't stick very well to mealworms.

About 1 pinky a month maximum would be my advice only if you really feel the need and be really certain of the health of the mice and the store you acquire them from.

WHAT SORT OF VEGETABLES SHOULD I USE?

Mustard Greens, Collard Greens, Turnip Greens, Bok Choy, Chickory Greens Zucchini, Clover, Bean Sprouts, Corn (cooked), Dandelion Greens, Beet Greens Sunflower Seedlings, Carrots (shredded), Peas, Red Tip Lettuce, Parsley, Beans, Purslane, Collards, Kale, Squash, Parsnip (shredded).

Our Dragons are feed daily healthy helpings of collards which are fresh grown from the garden by our facility.

This information from Alta Brewer (of the Pogona Mailing List) explains in detail why spinach has been avoided as a foodstuff and variety is important :

Spinach contains a large amount of oxalic acid, which binds with calcium, rendering the calcium unusuable by the animal. Over time, this causes metabolic bone disease, whith the body reabsorbing calcium from the bones to use for normal metabolic and cellular processes. Most of the dark greens contain oxalic acid but spinach contains the most. The high amount of oxalic acid may also cause gout over a period of time.........However, bok choy is a brassica, and can cause hypothyroidism, a thyroid deficiency, when fed in excess. Some is fine, but make sure they eat other greens as well.

WHAT ABOUT FLOWERS?

Hibiscus, Mustard Flowers, Dandelion, Carnations, Ice Plant, Squash, Clover, Nasturtium, Daisy. Dragons love their flowers and this is a main staple of them in the wild.

Our dragons are occasionly treated to Hibiscus flowers when the plants are blooming at our facility. 

AND FRUIT?

Melon, Berries, Banana (only very occasionally as a treat - bananas are very high in Phosphorus), Grapes, Strawberry, Raspberry, Apple.

Our dragons are treated 4-6 times a month with fresh offerings of strawberries, mango's and melons. 

When feeding any vegetable or fruit, always cut or shred it into small enough pieces. I slice lettuce, collard greens etc. very thinly, shred carrot and chop up peas and cooked unsalted sweet corn- these are their favourite everyday foods- I also treat them with occasional banana, apple and rarely strawberries and raspberries.

Also, you should feed fruit sparingly as although they may love it it can cause very loose stools, which may aggravate the digestive system, cause stress and also may dehydrate them.

WHAT IF THEY WON'T EAT VEGETABLES?

See if they like 'white' mealworms or small waxworms. If they do, chop up some greens (collard greens, broccoli and other stuff recommended in the book) and mix it with finely grated carrot, put the whole lot in a 'stone' bowl with low sides and let a few white mealworms burrow into it. Put it in the cage, add a couple more mealworms (white of course) and the dragons will eat the ones on top and probably look for more- see the ones in the veg. and grab them, get a piece of veg. by mistake and discover that it's actually good to eat.

Always use the same bowl (clean each time of course) in the same place and they pick it up pretty fast. Make sure you clean the poop out daily- they seem to have a keen sense of spell and don't like to be in the same area as their poop- it will put them off their food if they're fussy eaters. They will get the hang of it quite quickly- mine feed trustingly on anything I give them from my fingers now.

SPECIAL CARE FOR BABIES

My babies all feed within 24 hours of hatching, but that doesn't mean they all will. Baby Beardies like to be kept at higher temperatures than adult Beardies. They also require a very warm "basking point" area where the temp will reach over 100 degrees to warm up for digestion. ambient air temps in the enclosure of 85-90 degrees during the day with temp drop to 80 degrees at night. The BD babies seem to need the 'high' basking temperatures to get going (a metabolism thing) and to properly digest their food. When they start eating make sure that they can bask for at least 1 hour after feeding (the food can sour in their stomach if they go to sleep before properly digesting their dinner). Feed 2 week old crickets (some call them 1/4 size). Be careful that the crickets are not overly large - over-large food items can cause nerve problems and death. While they are not feeding be sure to keep them misted so they don't dehydrate and encourage the 'sleepy' ones (the ones that seem to just lay around in the corners and sleep) to bask. If need be place them on the basking area. After about a week the babies should be alert, active and skittery. Be sure to feed enough crickets during each feeding that they do not need to look for them. For substrate use kitchen paper towel. Do not use any of the barks or shredded wood pulps.

WHAT SHOULD I PUT THE FOOD IN?

We use the fake stone bowls/dishes. We usally feed our dragons around lunch time a nice helping of collards and dragon bites. The bowl is empty by night time. We keep a large stone bowl for water in the cage at all times.  This water bowl is cleaned daily.

WHAT ABOUT PET FOOD OR THE NEW PACKAGED DIETS?

We use Nature Zone Bearded Dragon Bites.  You can buy the 10 oz packages at most of the local pet stores.  We buy in the 1 gal tubs (weighs 13 lbs) for wholesale cost.  Use a food processor to grind it up real small and we have never had a dragon turn it down. 

Feed greens/vegetables first thing in the morning and use a clean bowl each time, and they should be removed by midday- that way they have plenty of time to be digested before the cooler night.

If you like the idea of something being there all day, when you take the bowl out, hang up a couple of collard green leaves or something they can rip at.

If you're letting them eat vegetables close to bedtime, make sure the cage is warm enough at night for them to digest their vegetables properly- otherwise they may ferment in their stomach overnight.

Remember - enough is plenty - too much is risky.

HOW MUCH SPACE DOES A BEARDED DRAGON NEED?

When they're small, they can be comfortably housed in a 12" x 12" x 24" aquarium (10 to 15 gallon terrarium) with a mesh top, but when they're fully grown- which can happen in just a few months if you look after them properly, they will need the biggest cage you can afford. Adults need at least the equal of a 60 gallon terrarium.  What to put inside the cage is up to you, but they like variety, so some climbing branches and maybe a rock or two. The bottom can be lined with sand, paper or outdoor carpet, but if you choose sand, make sure that it's WASHED PLAY SAND. Regular sand is just silica, which is the same as saying ground up glass. Also, for hatchlings I would recommend paper towels or newspaper, as at that age, they tend to try eating almost anything to start with and can end up with sand compacted in their intestines.

WHAT ELSE DOES A BEARDED DRAGON NEED APART FROM A CAGE?

Bearded Dragons need SPECIAL LIGHTING, especially UVB. Two kinds of UVB are available on the market and the dragons have to have one of these to be healthy. If you can not afford the light, you should not get the dragon as you will end up paying more in vet bills.

One kind is a special fluorescent bulbs available (such as ZooMed's 5.0, 10.0 or Exo-Terra 8.0) that deliver the strongest amount of UVB and UVA you can get in a tube. AN ORDINARY FLUORESCENT BULB IS USELESS. Position your UV Bulb so that the BD can bask within 6-12" of it, depending on the type. And replace the bulb every six (6)nonths as they wear out without actually looking any different. Remember, you will still need a heat source for them with this light

The other type is an all in one heat-UVB light,(such as MegaRay, Active UV Heat or PowerSun) these cost more initially, but less in the long run as they can last longer and you only need one bulb and fixture for heat and UVB. These you have to adjust so the proper temps reach the dragon on the basking point (they can be suspended or arms piurchased for them) and they also come in 60, 100 and 160 Watts.

Bearded Dragons need to be kept warm. The ideal temperatures are as follows :- Basking daytime 88 - 100:F. General Daytime 80 - 85:F. Normal Night 60 - 70:F. Pre-Breeding Day 75 - 80:F. Pre-Breeding Night 55 -65:F

WHAT KIND OF SUBSTRATE SHOULD I USE?

There are substrates that are good to use and some that should be avoided at all costs. We don't care what the pet store has told you is OK for your beardie - the bad ones we mention below are BAD and MUST be avoided. Even if you've been using one with no problems so far, that just means you've been lucky. If you have sand of any kind or chips in with a baby, remove it now and use paper towels.

When the dragons are adults, most people tend to use the crushed walnuts and playsand.  Some people tend to leave there dragons on paper. If you use the sand or walnut shells, we recconmend you dont feed your dragons on the substrate.  This will help in preventing the dragon from eating the substrate.   They like the sand as they will dig in it at night.  The sand and shells tend to retain heat at night.  AVOID HOT ROCKS! Your Dragons won't be able to tell if they're on or off and could get burnt. Use the special heat bulbs that quality pet stores sell for reptiles and make sure your dragons can't touch them. If you have already bought a hot rock, either return it to the store for a refund or cut the cord off and use it as a paperweight.

WHAT ABOUT TURNING THE LIGHTS ON AND OFF?

Animals need a 'diurnal' system that simulates night and day, just as we require the circadian rhythm to maintain good health and sleep patterns. Disrupting the cycle of simpler life forms can do all kinds of weird things to the way they develop, so with a higher life form (and by this I include all vertebrates so therefore BD's) the effects may be more subtle and difficult to actually see. But think about the effect of a screwed up day/night on you- it's one of the methods used in brainwashing/torture! Now your BD's can't complain to a Human Right Commission, but it can mess with their minds and will affect their feeding, growth, breeding:- in fact all aspects of their normal development. So it's a good idea to have definite day and night times for light in the cage- I change mine throughout the year to reflect the changing daylight hours, usually weekly. I use a 'Noma' outdoor timer, when the lights go off, so does the heat and they get by at room temperature.

The other question of heat at night is a bit trickier. If you are feeding them (especially young ones) close to 'lights out' a warm spot for them to sleep on will keep the digestive process going. My heat lamps are directed at a large boulder and this soaks up a fair bit of heat which they lie on after a big meal. It also stores heat and radiates it off at night. Most authorities on this subject recommend feeding earlier in the day. If you put veggies in the morning and remove them by midday they'll eat what they want and have digested it by bedtime, and the same goes for any insects you're using. In the wild, P.vitticeps occurs in some areas which get downright cold at night- even frost. Now while I don't think allowing icy conditions is a good idea, if it's comfortable enough in your house for you, it's probably plenty warm enough for your dragon. I've always kept mine that way along with a lot of other 'not completely tropical' species.

By simulating as natural an environment as possible where climatic conditions are concerned and by feeding a quality diet you should have your dragon around for a long time- at least as long if not longer than in the wild. Of course if you are really efficient, you can use an almanac that tells you the hours of daylight for a particular part of Australia! But considering how large the country is I don't see the point. I use the daylight times from my local newspaper and adjust the season to make the most of the hot weather (yes, even in Canada!).This involves either adding or subtracting an hour at each end of the day depending on what I'm trying to achieve. Make the changes gradual- not down to minutes a day, but a weekly change is OK. Of course, if you're super duper efficient you'll do it ever day, but I really don't think they'll notice!

WHAT IS BRUMATION?

To quote Kathryn Tosney...

"a normal period of semi-dormancy called 'Brumation' (this name distinguishes it scientifically from hibernation, in which an animal undergoes more extreme physiological changes). Brumation always scares new BD owners...."
But you're far better off reading about it at these two locations :

Brumating Dragons
(and make sure to read the rest of Kathryn's excellent site while you're at it!)
Here there be Sleeping Dragons

HOW LARGE DOES A BEARDED DRAGON GET?

Bearded dragons can grow to approximately 15 to 24 inches in length within 18 to 24 months, depending on the strain you are raising, whether you feed them adequately and if their cage is large and warm enough.

HOW FRIENDLY ARE BEARDED DRAGONS?

Bearded dragons can become extremely tame. It's important that you handle your Dragon as often as possible. How often and for how long do you handle him? Often and short is the idea- get him to enjoy it and return him before he acts up- even if it's only for 10 seconds. Are you rough, firm, scared, overcautious? - they can pick it up you know. Always support their belly from below; they hate to be grabbed from above. Some adults in the wild will even allow themselves to be picked up without a fight. Reptiles are actually quite smart and I've found BD's to be exceptionally so. Mine have learned all kinds of routines and behave differently for each situation- and they're still learning. The important thing is patience and allowing things to develop slowly. An improvement is an improvement no matter how small- you can build on it, which is more than you can say for failure!

IF I GET MORE THAN ONE, WILL THEY BREED?

If they're a pair, probably. But ask yourself what you will do with all the babies? One baby is a huge eater, think what 25 or more babies need to fill up. How will you feed them until you can find really good homes for them? There are lots of breeders out there, so you won't be able to 'go into business'. You're far better off with one male (females can sometimes become eggbound) who will become a trusted companion.

HOW CAN I TELL IF MINE IS MALE OR FEMALE?

When they're young, it can be almost impossible to tell the difference between males and females: even 'experienced' breeders have been known to make mistakes. By the time they're around 5 months old, the differences become more apparent; certainly it is easier to spot males by this time, although the ocasional ' female' may turn out to be a male later on after the hemipenes drop. The pictures you see here were provided by ReptileRooms.com. It's the method I use. On sub-adults I have had 100% success using it. You should look for two bulges that are the hemipenes in a male. If you see these you can be almost certain that yours is a boy. Although the absence of the hemipenes (and only a large bulge in the centre) usually means you have a female, some males are later to develop than others so it's not so reliable when selecting a female. Female also have small femoral pores, about the size of a pinhead that go from the vent area down the upper thighs, males have larger ones and as they mature more, they have a waxy plug that is rasied up above the surface of the skin.


Male Dragon - showing enlarged hemipenal bulges on the tailbase.
Female Dragon - Just a single bump in the center of the tailbase.

SHOULD I PROVIDE WATER?

We provide our dragons with a pool of water in the cages every day.  It is cleaned out daily and warm fresh water is added.  We notice that most of our dragons tend to drink from the water while they are soaking.  To make sure the dragons are getting addiquite water,  we will soak them out of the cage in a bowl of water.  Soaking them tends to happen more when they are in a shed.  This helps them through the process. 

HOW LONG WILL MY BEARDED DRAGON LIVE?

If you decide to refrain from breeding your dragons too young and too often, their life span could be anything from 4 to 10 years, maybe even longer (I recently heard from someone in Australia who's Bearded Dragon passed away after over 20 years). The difference lies in how well you care for them. Breeding from them in the first year might sound like fun, but it WILL shorten their lifespan- especially if they are bred from repeatedly. Diet, quality of light, psychological stresses- in fact anything that might affect you or I can also effect your BD's. Also, a small dragon may not necessarily produce small offspring- it may be the result of poor husbandry by the breeder/supplier- large eggs in a small female can cause problems.

Remember like all pets take good care of them and you will have many years and memories of the best reptile on earth The bearded Dragon....